When infact, maybe 1 in 100 trailers of that given model will be that absolute bare-bone model.ĭry weight WILL NOT include the weights for things like propane tank(s), battery, spare tire (spare tire mount), awning, air conditioner, fridge, furnace, water heater, a vent fan, powered winch, powered jack nor any options. Trouble is the manufacture will take a stripped down model (think tent on wheels) weigh it and give the whole model line that dry weight. ĭry Weight for years has/had been used by manufactures and dealers to sell trailers as "light weight". (sounds very confusing but really is quite easy to figure out)ĬCC - Cargo Carrying Capacity - how much cargo you can carry. just because the trailers gvwr is below your tow rating still DOESN'T mean you can necessarily tow it. This is the number to keep under your vehicles tow rating. it is the max weight the trailer can weigh fully loaded. What I feel is the most important weight number of the trailer. UWR - Unloaded weight rating, something that you will largely find on trailers in the past 5-8 (ties into the explanation below) Tongue weight - Self explanatory 10-15% of the loaded actual weight of the trailer. weight the vehicle with trailer in tow can weigh.Īxle weight rating - how much weight the axle itself can support, seen a few times where axle rating is exceeded before payload rating.īest place to find this info is head to your favorite Ford stealership and have them run the V.I.N of the vehicle, they should be able to give the exact weights for all of these specific to your vehicle (not the generic ratings you'll find in various publications.)ĭry weight - CAN be a fictitious made up number depending on the trailers age (explained further below). ![]() ![]() Tow Rating - (this can vary wildly for a given vehicle due to things like options, tire size etc.) Tongue weight rating - this is not only determined by the tow rating and payload rating, but also by the installed hitch ratings. ![]() If you buy new, manufacturers started to include options in the numbers so dry weight won’t be grossly off like on mine.Īside from payload(which I say would be in the top 5 weights to know) there are a few others that are need to know. Also discovered the tongue weight when looking for a camper is also the dry weight so you will manually have to add the weight of battery and propane. Dry weight was listed at 2500 As per its sticker however when I physically weighed the camper before my gear the actual weight was actually just at 3000. So it’s best to use the GVWR of a camper as a general guide on whether you can tow it or not. Now as far as campers.a few things to note on older campers pre 2010 I believe the dry weight is a worthless weight as it did not include the weight of options such as AC, awning, furnace, it also does not include the weight of battery, and propane. ![]() What you have left is the max tongue weight you can safely tow. Check your manual but I’m pretty sure the weight of passengers and gear where not part of their calculations so you will need to deduct those numbers from your payload. Thing I have discovered is you are far more likely to reach your max payload numbers on your vehicle than being able to reach the max towing number. Start by locating the max payload numbers on your vehicle.
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